Turkey

 

Making Natural Dyes for Rugs

Dying Wool for Rugs with Traditional Natural Dyes from Many Plant Species

 

Woman Weaving a Rug

Woman Spinning Wool for Rugs

 

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Dome, Hagia Sophia

Dome, Hagia Sophia

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Pageantry in Museum Performance

Our itinerary, ably arranged by Travel Atelier in Urgup/Nevesehir, Turkey (founded by the dynamic  couple Y. Murat Ozguc & Pinar Soyata Ozguc, info@travelatelier.com),  included:

  • Cooking class & lunch, Cooking Alaturka
  • Beautiful hotel (European side of the Bosphorus): Istanbul, Park Hyatt Istanbul-Maca Palas (European Side of the Bosporus), a well-located luxurious and gracious hotel; we economized by using our points at the Park Hyatt
  • Favorite Restaurant (European side of the Bosphorus): Kosebasi, Nisantasi neighborhood  (where famous Turkish author Orhan Pamuk grew up) across from Park Hyatt, contemporary, delicious food, turkish pizza, kebaps)
  • Wondrous hotel (Asian side of the Bosphorus): Istanbul, Sumahan on the Water (Asian Side of the Bosporus), exquisite and gracious hotel designed by Turkish-American architect couple with interior design by their daughter, with private ferry to European side

View of Asian Side of the Bosphorus, Istanbul

Ship on the Bosphorus, Istanbul, with Bridge in the Background

Ferry on the Bosphorus, Istanbul, with Bridge in the Background

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Bosphorus Bridge at Night, View from Sumahan on the Water 

  • Favorite Restaurant (Asian side of the Bosphorus): Ciya in the old Fish District market in Kadikoy, very modest yet world-renowned, incredible food, delightful ambiance, about 100 varieties of kebaps, great mezzo, unusual walnut dessert, see New Yorker article about this fantastic place, The Memory Kitchen: A chef recovers the foods that Turkey forgot, April 19, 2010.

Ciya Restaurant, Asian Side of the Bosphorus, New Yorker

Pastries, Grand Bazaar, Istanbul

  • Cappadocia, Esbelli Evi Cave Hotel, delightful, intimate hotel with cave rooms in a garden setting
    • Rock Sites of Cappadocia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
    • Hot Air Balloon Ride
    • Favorite restaurant: Ziggy’s Shop and Cafe
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Hot Air Balloon Over Cappadocia, Laura Prusoff

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Esbelli Evi, Urgup, with Phenomenal Cave Rooms

  • Visit to Ortahisar with Laura Prusoff and Nurettin Mantar, Professional Photographers (see Laura’s photos).
    • I first met Laura when I emailed her after reading an article about how she and Nurettin assembled their property by buying up a series of caves and unifying them into an imaginative  (New York Times, “In Cappadocia, Returning to the Cave,” July 27, 2011 (download linked file, Returning to the Cave); by chance her nephew Douglas Prusoff was in Arnie’s history class at Lafayette College.
    • The five-level home combines nine pieces of property that cost between $350 and $14,000 each, many of which were in ruins.
    • Their B&B is in an extension of their home, Sefa House, 52 Kale Sokak, 50650 Ortahisar; for reservations, email Laura at lp54@me.com.
    • Laura, a professional chef, prepares a delectable breakfast for their guests.
    • Laura’s father, the late William H. Prusoff,  a pharmacologist at the Yale School of Medicine, with a colleague developed an effective component in the first generation of drug cocktails used to treat AIDS.

“Returning to the Cave,” Jan McGready for the New York Times

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Patio of Laura & Nurettin’s Home Overlooking Caves, Laura Prusoff

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Produce Market, Laura Prusoff

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Cave Room, Sefa House, Laura Prusoff

Appetizing Breakfast

Appetizing Breakfast at Sefa House

 

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Village of Ortehisar in the Valley, Laura Prusoff

 

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Caves, Ortehisar, Laura Prusoff

  • Şirince, Gullu Konaklari, a charming small hotel in a beautiful setting with lovely flower gardens
  • Ephesus (near Selçuk), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, & Priene (near Izmir), magnificent ancient sites with Greek and Roman ruins
    • The proprietor of Selçuk Optik, Iskender Bilgili, very kindly made a new pair of reading glasses for me in about two hours since I had left mine on the plane in the Izmir Airport; he called my home optician to obtain the prescription in order to accommodate me, ☎️ 232 892 93 06
    • We bought a beautiful, vibrantly colored “dowry” rug (see photo above in Gallery); however, caveat emptor when buying rugs in Turkey, as many of them are misrepresented and are actually made in Pakistan
  • Bodrum, Kempinski Barbaros Bay, exquisite site overlooking Bay of Marmara, super-luxurious
    • Favorite Restaurants: Gonca Balik, Torba, simple place on the beach, wooden tables & chairs, delicious mezzo & fresh grilled fish); Memedof, simple seafood restaurant across from Marina
Arnie Dining at Tortora

Arnie Dining at Gonca Balik, Torba

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Proprietor with Freshly Caught Fish at Gonca Balik, Torba

  • Special Shops: Bodrum Sandalet (Proprietor: Ibrahim Dikan) for handmade sandals, info@bodrumsandalet.com; ARA Collection, elegant handmade jewelry
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Artemis Temple, Ephesus, One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Sculptural Detail, Ephesus

Sculptural Detail, Ephesus

Urinals, Ephesus

Urinal, Ephesus

 

 

 

Priene, An Ancient Greek City with Temple of Athena

Priene, An Ancient Greek City with Temple of Athena

Temple of Diana,

Izmir Agora, Roman Ruins

Gullu Konaklari, Sirince

Gullu Konaklari, Şirince

 

 

View of Bay of Marmara from Kempinski, Bodrum

View of Bay of Marmara from Kempinski, Bodrum

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